Day 8: Akbel to Gelemis (Including the Ruins of Delikkemer and Patara)

Beaufort

We woke from a restless night to find Beaufort still guarding the tent. He was rewarded with a large piece of sausage as we broke camp and got ready to walk. We were camped right next to a rock with a Lycian Way mark, so we were on the trail from the first step. After a few minutes walking, we noticed Beaufort was following us. We thought he’d drop off after a while with no further treats, but he just kept following.

Since he was currently living next to a busy highway with a pack of stray dogs, we imagined anywhere else he went would be better for him and let him continue with us.

Today’s trail was terrific. It continued along the aqueduct, which is faint in some areas. The trail was rocky but not difficult, though the scrub is quite thick in places and scratchy on the skin.

Soon we came to Delikkemer, which is an engineering feat. You can walk right up on this siphonic system and see the holes, plugs, and cut-out sockets they used to manage the flow of water. This has been standing for 2000 years, and from the top we had a view of the sea and olive orchards. It was an incredible sight, and to be able to see it up close was a real treat.

Betsy walking through Delikkemer

Pieces of Delikkemer

When we left Delikkemer we could see the dual markings of the Lycian Way. We read ahead in our guidebook and know that we come back through this way again, so we took extra care in finding our way out. Beaufort continued following us like a champ, lying down at every chance as if we were punishing him to walk so far. But since he did guard duty all night, we did try to find a few shady spots for him to rest along the way.

We finally entered a pine forest area with welcome shade and continued following around to Patara Valley. To the left we could see the ruins in the distance, but to the right was the road to the village. We decided the next day would be our rest day, so we wanted to find a pansiyon and dump our bags, hopefully in time to get some laundry done, find and repair the leak on Betsy’s air mattress, and enjoy a nice hot meal.

There are lots of pansiyons in Patara, as we later discovered, but we stayed at one of the first we found at the top of the hill with a view to the sea named Mehmet Pansiyon. Beaufort settled in under the balcony to our room, and we worried that he was going to stay with us forever. There are several stray dogs and sheep dogs along the trail, so walking with a dog of our own is not ideal long-term. We hoped he would get bored and find a new pack in Patara far away from busy roads.

We got laundry done for just 10 lira (about $5), and we enjoyed our first hot shower since the start of our journey. Tomorrow we explore Patara.

Daily Stats

Where We Stayed

Mehmet Pansiyon, one of the first pansiyons you’ll see when descending to the village from the trail

Hours Walked

4:00

Perks

Our own guard dog, the incredible ruins of Delikkemer, a nice and relatively easy route through a beautiful landscape

Problems

Slight worry about what to do about Beaufort the dog. Is he ours now?