Day 4: Alinca to Sidyma

Sleeping on concrete

After an uncomfortable night sleep-sitting on concrete, the sun finally came up. But the wind and rain continued. At this point we were able to better see our surroundings, and just down from where were were pseudo-sleeping was an open door to a freshly made up room. Apparently the owner of the pansiyon left it open for any travelers who came in the middle of the night.

Oh, if only we had looked!

We were tired, but a good breakfast woke us up and we were committed to getting to today’s destination of Bel. But it was still raining, and the wind was fierce. The guidebook said this route has a 500-meter narrow section above a high and steep slope and that it shouldn’t be attempted in bad weather. We were trying to figure out what constituted bad weather and if the wind was going to die down anytime soon.

Our new friends Burak and Utcu told us they were taking the alternate route via the road to the village of Sidyma because of the weather. We decided to attempt the start of our path to see if we could do it. After 30 minutes of battling the wind and trying to stay upright, we admitted our defeat and came back up to the road.

On to Sidyma!

The road walking was not particularly difficult, and because it is such a remote area only 2 cars passed us the entire walk. It was really wet, and we’re glad we packed rain jackets and rain pants. Warren stepped in a deep puddle and got water in his shoes, and we wondered how long it would take for them to dry in the pouring rain.

We ran into Burak and Utcu underneath a large tree outside the village of Boğaziçi (pronounced: bo-az-ich-i), a nice little farming village with a fairly new mosque. Shortly after this, we were able to regain the Lycian Way trail from the road to go into Sidyma.

The trail was rockier and and more difficult than the road due to the rain, but it allowed us to see the terrific ruins of Sidyma, our first bit of history on this trail. There are ruins of a road as well as walls and magnificent tombs. Even in the rain it was incredible to see, and if you stay on the road you’ll miss it entirely. The view is supposed to be amazing from the top of the hill, but since we were getting pounded with rain we can’t verify.

Ruins in Sidyma

As we walked into the village of Sidyma we were met by a man asking if we needed a room or food. Knowing we needed to dry out our tent and Warren’s shoes, we asked for a room. There are no pansiyons in Sidyma that we could find, but you can stay with locals. We were charged 40 lira each (about $20 USD), for a room with breakfast and dinner, and it was very basic. But the family was friendly and we were able to dry out our tent and shoes. Before the day was over, 4 more people took shelter under their roof, and I’m pretty sure they ended up sleeping on the floor.

Ruins in Sidyma 2

We spent the afternoon in our room waiting out the storm, reading, and napping. We are hoping this storm is not a regular occurrence and that we wake up to blue skies tomorrow.

Daily Stats

Where We Slept

At the family home of Jamil, just a few houses in on the right side as you enter the village.

Hours Walked

2:45

Perks

Our first ruins of the trek, a nice backup plan via the road (which probably won’t be available on every leg of this trip), a welcoming family to take us in, great rain gear.

Problems

When in doubt, realize that Mother Nature will always win. We were foolish to think we could outsmart the storm and try the more difficult path in high wind. In hindsight, we should have probably just stayed the day/night at the pansiyon in Alinca and waited a day to resume walking, especially since we were already ahead of schedule from combining days. It’s tough to walk in the rain and wind, especially when you realize all that you are missing by not being able to see the views.