Day 2: Ölüdeniz to Faralya

Starting the Lycian Way

As we walked up the hill to the start of the trail, we stopped to take a picture of the beautiful lagoon below. Just as we were putting the camera back in the pack, the call to prayer from the mosque wafted up to us from below. It was a goose-bump moment and a beautiful way to start the hike.

First view of the sea

Near the small village of Kirme, we came across 6 Turkish hikers resting at the cistern and enjoying a morning cup of tea. If you spend any time in Turkey at all, you’ll learn that the Turks LOVE drinking tea. We learned they were all on holiday for Bayram and enjoying a few days of hiking and camping together. One had spent 7 years living in New Jersey…he even pronounced it like a local!

As we were chatting, the cows that were grazing nearby got into one woman’s open pack and began nosing around. It was a funny moment to end our chat, and we refilled our water and kept walking.

What else did we see today? Beehouses. This is a big bee-keeping area, and you will see multicolored boxes the size of office paper boxes in lines across grass. The sound of buzzing is a common one, especially around the water fountains, but we’ve learned that moving slow is a pretty safe bet when refilling your water.

We found a wooden platform under a tree in Kirme and stopped to eat our lunch. A boy of about 8 came by with a pellet gun and showed it to Warren. He was out hunting birds and seemed pretty intent on it. After we finished our lunch we followed the trail through the village, passing the boy’s house and walking right in the sights of his pellet gun as he honed in on a bird.

Lucky for us he has quick reflexes and pulled up as we passed.

We arrived in Faralya, where were stopped at the Gül Pansiyon to rest (pansiyon is the Turkish name for a pension or guesthouse). The view from the corner table on the platform is the reward for a good day’s walk, as is the ice cold Efes beer.

Feeling refreshed, we decided to keep walking. Three little girls stopped us at the fountain on the way out of town as we refilled our bottles (you can often refill water at village fountains, cisterns, and at water stations at the local mosque). They asked us our names in English and giggled as we responded.

We picked ripe pomegranates from the trees to eat with our dinner and climbed our way out of the village. At the top of a small hill about 30 minutes away, we found the perfect camping spot: flat ground, under a tree, and still with a view of the water for sunset.

Because our Big Agnes Fly Creek UL 3 tent comes with a mesh top and a removable fly, we were able to enjoy the full moon and stars all night. No mosquitoes, no cold, and no wind.

This entire day was a perfect start to our journey. We were a little sore from carrying our packs, but overall no blisters or problems. Are we in better shape than we thought, or are we going to be paying the price tomorrow? Only time will tell. And we’re hoping our luck holds out for another month!

Daily Stats

Where We Slept

Camping about 30 minutes outside of Faralya on the flat top of the hill

Hours Walked

6:00 (including :30 past Faralya to the open terrace at the top of the pass to camp)

Perks

The call to prayer as we were heading out, a gorgeous view in Faralya from Gül Pansiyon with an ice-cold Efes beer, ripe pomegranates on the trees, and a night under the stars as we slept without the tent fly.

Problems

The goat path turn in the instructions was not marked, so we got lost for a bit. It’s tough to rely only on the book’s general instructions and marks – we’re used to having a proper trail map. Wondering now if GPS is a requirement for this trail and not a luxury as the book states.