Day 18: Kaş to Üzüm Iskelesi Beach

The 3 Amigos ready to hike

Today is Halloween, and it started with both tricks and treats for us today. We looked at the guidebook and map with Osman last night, and we broke up the journey from Kaş to the ruins of Myra into 3, approximately 6-hour walks. So we’ll be veering off a bit from the book’s daily schedule here.
We started at dawn by dumping our bags on Osman’s boat and beginning our walk to Iskelesi Beach. Sherry wore a pack to help her get used to it, but we took turns carrying only a light pack of water and snacks. It almost felt like we were walking naked!

The walk at first was easy, and we were happy that Sherry was getting a break easing into this walk. We picked up another dog companion like our friend Beaufort from Akbel, and we wondered if would stick around all day. No such worry once we got on the rocky path to Limanagazi! (This is where the trick comes in.)

View over the waters from the trail

We mistakenly got on the lower path, the one the in the guidebook with the warning we were going to heed. As we scrambled over large boulders jutting out from the sea, the dog wisely turned back and left us on our own. It was a careful path of treading purposefully and trying not to fall between the rocks or tumble down into the sea. But there is no doubt it was beautiful! Sherry’s easy first day became challenging in a hurry.

Rocks, rocks, and more rocks

We finally reached Ufak-dere, which is a small beach with a house/pansiyon in the making and a charming half-island jutting out to make a private cove. The owner called out to us from across the water as we descended the path offered drinks and food, and we decided to take him up on the drinks.

Blue waters of Ufak-dere

The rhymes of Vanilla Ice greeted us as we walked up. “Ice, ice, baby” was just about the last thing on earth we expected to hear in this paradise.

The owner is a man named Özcan, and he’s been building this place for about 8 years. He has camping spots available as well as rooms, and the roofed lounging area with the fireplace looked like the perfect place to write. (Minus the Vanilla Ice, of course.)

Shortly after arriving and popping open the ice-cold sweetness of a Coca Cola, our boat captain from the day before pulled up. He had new clients who were swimming, so he came ashore to say hello. The Turks are such friendly people, and we we were pleasantly surprised when Ali invited us to join his family for a day cruise when we return to Kaş at the end of our walk.

Resting at Ufak-dere

We resumed our walk after about an hour of resting and visiting began the very hot walk to Üzüm Iskelesi Beach. We’re now accustomed to looking for camp spots even though we don’t need them, and we found a great one at the first flat spot we saw after Ufak-dere – a small row of hedges separating this flat space with a view of the seat…gorgeous!

When we got our first peek of the beach we saw Osman motoring over in the dinghy. There was also a tall, thin man sitting under a tree on the beach in his underwear writing. His name was Andreas, and he certainly wasn’t expecting us to intrude on his private camping spot! But he was very good-natured about our intrusion and formally introduced himself with as much dignity as if he were fully dressed in a suit. Even though he was German, our common language was Spanish and we briefly chatted before heading out in the dinghy with Osman to the boat.

Osman arrives

Osman and his ship’s mate Abdullah cooked a feast for lunch, and we followed this up with a swim. Andreas swam out to join us, and we talked about what we’d seen so far on the walk. He’s a funny and introspective guy, and we hope we see more of him on the walk…though not in his underwear! :)

We spent the rest of the day relaxing on the lounge cushions of the boat and then had köfte for dinner, which is the Turkish version of meatballs and delicious. We had a lively conversation about travel, politics, Turkey, and life with Sherry and Osman. Sherry opted to sleep in inside the cabin, but we made up our bed on the lounging cushions at the front of the boat. It was an almost moonless night, and we were treated to a blanket of stars as we drifted off to sleep.

Relaxing on the boat

Sleeping on the deck of a boat is a great way to relax after walking all day. We could get used to this.

Daily Stats

Where We Slept

On Captain Osman’s boat, the Selin-3!

Hours Walked

6:00

Perks

Walking without packs, gorgeous beaches all to ourselves, meeting a fellow distance walker, great food, swimming, excellent conversation with friends, and sleeping under a blanket of stars on the boat.

Problems

We mistakenly took the low route to Limagazi, which was more challenging than we wanted for Sherry’s first day. It’s challenging, but definitely doable.