Day 17: Kaş (final rest day + arrival of our friend)

Betsy relaxing on a day off on the boat

It’s a beautiful day to be on a boat! We arrived at 9:45 to find our captain a little bleary from the night’s festivities, but still ready to take us out for a day of fun and sun. The town square was completely back to normal, which was shocking given the number of people and decorations from the night before.

We motored over to a private, sheltered cove and took the snorkel gear out for a spin. The water was so clear we could easily see the fish and rock formations below. We had one seal sighting, but he never got close enough to photograph.

Enjoying a dip in the water

At one point Warren dropped the breathing tube and it sank to the bottom, so he took a quick dive to about 3 meters to pick it up. He tends to have problems with his ears anyway, and when he came up he had a raging headache. It took a while to rebalance the pressure in his ears, but by the time it did, his story had already morphed into one on par with the pearl divers of Asia. If you hear him mention the time he “dove 50 meters” without oxygen you’ll know he’s referring to this 15-second dive. :)

We took turns the rest of the day sunning ourselves on the cushions of the front deck and swimming in the 3 locations we visited. Ali cooked us a great lunch of grilled fish (right off the side of the boat) and delicious salads and we enjoyed drinking cold beers in the hot sun.

As we were winding down the day, Ali brought us a tray of fresh fruit and coffee. This would be a very easy life to get used to! We also got to see the beach we’ll be walking to on tomorrow’s route of the Lycian Way at Liman Agazi. It will likely be far less luxurious than today’s trip, but we are anxious to get back to walking.

Rock tomb above the water

We arrived back at the dock ready to meet our friend Sherry Ott, who will be walking with us the rest of the way. She’s nervous about being able to keep up with us since we’ve had a 2-week start in getting used to the packs, and of course we’re all worried about getting along as we undertake this challenge. Knowing that we’re all aware of it makes it seem less likely we’ll have any substantial problems, but I guess we’ll find out!

Sherry has been to Kaş before on a tour, and she remained friends with another boat captain named Osman. She suggested we meet with him as he offered to transport our bags along the coast (another benefit of arriving at the end of the tourist season is that boat captains are not as busy). We were pretty hesitant because we always picture ourselves as independent travelers and generally dislike “tour group” kind of excursions, but we were game to at least talk.

Osman welcomed us on board his boat, and we spread our map out on the table. We quickly discovered that the next 4 destinations were actually quite easy to meet up with a boat, and it didn’t take long for us to work out a plan to walk during the day, get picked up by the boat at night, and enjoy the ease of walking without a backpack and not having to manage our meals. Osman has done this before with other groups of walkers, and he’s got some great advice about how to set up the trip to maximize the enjoyment. He’s a smart businessman to add this package to his service for Lycian Way walkers, especially since it doesn’t overlap with his regular day-trip tourist season.

It was a bit of a stretch for us financially since the cost was spread among only 3 people, but we’re already excited about this different way of enjoying the walk and think it will be a good investment. Osman even offered to let us sleep on the boat that night for free, which we wish we had known before paying for a night’s lodging. Oh well, something to remember for next time!

He suggested we buy all the sodas and beers we wanted from a nearby market and store them onboard to save money, so we did. As for meals, he said he would take care of 2 per day and we could make our own lunches from the cheese, bread and vegetables he had available every day after breakfast.

Tomorrow we’re back to walking!

Daily Stats

Where We Stayed

Çakil Pansiyon, right on the Lycian Way and with an excellent view of the sea (though a sleep climb to our room!)

Hours Walked

0 on the trail…it’s our rest day! But we did do a lot of swimming.

Perks

A fun day on a boat and making plans to stay on a boat for the next 3 nights of walking…both unplanned but very welcome experiences! We are excited about the arrival of our friend Sherry Ott, who first suggested this hike to us about 6 months ago.

Problems

Problems, what problems? Life is looking pretty damn good from here.