Day 10: Patara to Kalkan

Fully rested and showered, we set off on today’s walk to Kalkan. We saw the sun glimmering on the ruins of of Patara as we walked away. Imagine how incredible this city must have been in its prime!

View over Patara

Today’s route takes us back to Delikkemer, though through a different route, and then on to Kalkan. The guidebook says the path we want to take is too dangerous with big backpacks and to send them ahead by bus, but when you’re camping, where do you send them?

Our options are to go back through to Akbel and then walk to Kalkan (we’re not big fans of backtracking, especially just 48 hours later) or to take the route to Delikkemer and then walk down to the highway to catch the dolmuş into Kalkan. We’re going to take the dolmuş and then walk a bit into tomorrow’s route.

Today was a gorgeous walk with sea views and rocky coastline, and we enjoyed this different perspective of the area around Delikkemer. We had a bit of scrambling, but nothing too significant. about 2 hours into today’s walk we found the perfect campsite or break spot. There is a small wooden terrace you could use for lounging or even to set up your tent, and it leads right to a small private beach. Had we had enough water and food to stay, we would have. It was gorgeous!

View of the sea with Lycian Way marks

Sea view on way to Kalkan

Delikkemer did not diminish it’s appeal on a second viewing. Once we arrived there, it was just a 500-meter walk down to the main road and a 5-minute wait for a dolmuş to Kalkan. The ride took just a few minutes and cost 5 lira.

Kalkan itself is a bit of a shocker after 10 days of villages and camping. It’s a pretty and bustling tourist town with a high number of English-speaking expats. Several of the shops have English signs, and there are prices listed in £ and €. We found the most expensive döner we’ve had since arriving in Turkey and then spent some time walking through the windy streets. There are cute shops and restaurants, and at the mosque you can refill water.

We asked about camping and were told it was available on the outskirts of town, about 2 km away. Thankfully this is also the direction of tomorrow’s route. We fortified ourselves for the sunny walk with an ice cream bar and began walking.

The highway is big but surprisingly light on traffic, and we eventually found the turnoff to the left to continue the hike. But we still hadn’t seen the campground. We decided to give it another 15 minutes and then found it, just off the road and across the street from a shop. It was a platform campground in the midst of a garden – lovely! There were areas to relax on couches with lights hanging from the trees and a restaurant area. The only downside was being right off the highway, but at that moment we were too hot to continue and excited by the prospect of a hot breakfast, flushing toilets, and a lounge area in the shade to read and relax.

We set up our tent on the platform and enjoyed an afternoon of reading, writing, playing cards, and talking. The owner Yusef came by to invite us to a wedding reception, but we were too tired and grubby to say yes. Again, though, it shows the generous nature of the Turkish people.

Camping on a platform

Unfortunately Betsy’s air mattress lost air in the night again, so we’ll have to re-seal it tomorrow. This is really frustrating as we need a good night’s sleep to be ready for the walking each day.

Daily Stats

Where We Slept

EGE Camping and Restaurant, less than 1 km from the turn-off on the Lycian Way to Bezirgan.

Hours Walked

4:30

Perks

A gorgeous, sunny, seaside town with everything we could want in the way of supplies, a quirky little campground to sleep in with bathrooms, and a gorgeous day of sea views and coastline during our walk.

Problems

Unavoidable highway noise at night, but thankfully it is not heavily traveled. A small price to pay for cool shelter on a hot day.