Day 1: Bus from Antalya to Fethiye (Ölüdeniz)

After spending a few days in Istanbul and Antalya enjoying the food and sights of Turkey, we took a dolmuş (pronounced: dole-mush) minibus from Antalya to Fethiye, the start of our hike. We laughed that it took just 4 hours to drive the distance we were going to walk back in a mere 4 weeks. […]

Day 2: Ölüdeniz to Faralya

As we walked up the hill to the start of the trail, we stopped to take a picture of the beautiful lagoon below. Just as we were putting the camera back in the pack, the call to prayer from the mosque wafted up to us from below. It was a goose-bump moment and a beautiful […]

Day 3: Faralya to Alinca (including Kabak Beach)

What was I saying yesterday about not being sore? Today we woke up with sore backs and legs. But after a few minutes of moving around, we were ready to go again. It does take some adjustment to sleep in a tent because there is not a lot of room to maneuver at night. But […]

Day 4: Alinca to Sidyma

After an uncomfortable night sleep-sitting on concrete, the sun finally came up. But the wind and rain continued. At this point we were able to better see our surroundings, and just down from where were were pseudo-sleeping was an open door to a freshly made up room. Apparently the owner of the pansiyon left it […]

Day 5: Sidyma to Pydnai Ruins

We left Jimal’s and his family bright and early to begin walking toward Gavuragili. The rain let up in the night and we had blue skies with a slight breeze, which we hoped would help dry Warren’s still-damp shoes. We passed another set of ruins with a small group of campers within as we were […]

Day 6: Pydmai to Xanthos (including Letoon)

One of the compound dogs settled up next to our tent and “guarded” us all night, for which we treated him in the morning with a bit of leftover sausage. We enjoyed some homemade bread from one of the greenhouse workers who came with a small group to the restaurant for breakfast. Delicious…and why can’t […]

Day 7: Xanthos to Akbel

Today’s route started on the same road we came in on and leads to a small village called Çavdir (pronounced: chav-deer). The town has several shops and markets, so it was a great place for us to replenish our bread/cheese/tuna supply. It would probably be much better for us to cook our own food, but […]

Day 8: Akbel to Gelemis (Including the Ruins of Delikkemer and Patara)

We woke from a restless night to find Beaufort still guarding the tent. He was rewarded with a large piece of sausage as we broke camp and got ready to walk. We were camped right next to a rock with a Lycian Way mark, so we were on the trail from the first step. After […]

Day 9: Patara (Rest Day)

Beaufort is a smarter dog than we give him credit for. As we were preparing to go down for breakfast we saw him happily wagging his tail and following 2 hikers back the way we came the day before. Maybe he’s an official Lycian Way tour dog? After breakfast we walked to the ruins of […]

Day 10: Patara to Kalkan

Fully rested and showered, we set off on today’s walk to Kalkan. We saw the sun glimmering on the ruins of of Patara as we walked away. Imagine how incredible this city must have been in its prime! Today’s route takes us back to Delikkemer, though through a different route, and then on to Kalkan. […]

Day 11: Kalkan to Bezirgan

Packing up was easy, and we enjoyed watching Yusef’s wife check her daughter’s homework and get her off to the school bus in the morning while we ate. Even when you don’t speak the language, you can spot a good mom. The climb out of Kalkan was tough, but beautiful. The view of the coastline […]

Day 12: Bezirgan to Gökçeören

This was the coolest start to the morning we’ve had so far. Betsy’s patch job on the air mattress yesterday worked, so we had a pretty quiet night except for one animal sniffing around our tent in the dark. Wild boar? Chupacabra? We were too tired to care (though it was probably more along the […]

Day 13: Gökçeoren to Çukerbag (including the ruins of Phellos)

Another night of small animal visitors sniffing around, but this time we’re pretty sure it was just stray dogs. If we’re awake when it happens we play a game of imagining the weirdest kind of animal it could be. Betsy is convinced a chupacabra is following us! We only have one aspirin + caffeine tablet […]

Day 14: Çukerbag to Kaş

After last night’s jarring call to prayer from the mosque across the street, we expected to be woken with a start. But the muezzin started the day with a non-amplified call to prayer, which was a great way to wake up. We had a short walk ahead of us to Kaş (pronounced: Cash), where we planned […]

Day 15: Kaş (rest day)

Considering we were still asleep before 7 p.m. last night, it’s no shock we were awake before sunrise. But thankfully being clean, warm, and in a real bed gave us options to while away the time – options that are far less sexy in a tent after 4 days of walking without a shower! Not […]

Day 16: Kaş (rest day + Turkish Independence Day)

Today we decided to book our apartment at Lantana for the end of the walk. It will be a nice place to relax, unwind, and catch up on work after so long away. It feels good to have this taken care of and know what we’ll be doing at the end. We’re both anxious to […]

Day 17: Kaş (final rest day + arrival of our friend)

It’s a beautiful day to be on a boat! We arrived at 9:45 to find our captain a little bleary from the night’s festivities, but still ready to take us out for a day of fun and sun. The town square was completely back to normal, which was shocking given the number of people and […]

Day 18: Kaş to Üzüm Iskelesi Beach

Today is Halloween, and it started with both tricks and treats for us today. We looked at the guidebook and map with Osman last night, and we broke up the journey from Kaş to the ruins of Myra into 3, approximately 6-hour walks. So we’ll be veering off a bit from the book’s daily schedule here. […]

Day 19: Üzüm Iskelesi Beach to the Ruins of Aperlae

A night sleeping under the stars…is there anything more magical? Because of the tiny sliver of a moon we were treated to a blanket of stars all night. Every time we woke up we had to reorient ourselves because of the lack of a ceiling overhead. This was also the first morning in weeks we […]

Day 20: Ruins of Aperlae to Kamilik Burun (including the ruins of Simena)

Last night was just cool enough to snuggle up under a heavy blanket on the deck, and the stars were again abundant. The boat hardly  moved all night, and we went to sleep to the sound of wild pigs foraging and the sound of laughter from a house at the far side of the lagoon. […]

Day 21: Kamilik Burun to the Ruins of Myra (almost!)

Another tranquil night under the stars. It’s going to be hard to go back to camping tonight! Captain Osman told us the portion of today’s hike to the village of Gürses was not as interesting as a side detour to his favorite camping ground in the area. Since his advice to this point had been […]

Day 22: Ruins of Myra to Demre

What a perk to have a bathroom available after waking in a tent! It’s the little things, you know… After breaking camp, the mayor came out to greet us and pick some green leaves from the bushes. He took these leaves back to his house and came back with a tray of the traditional tulip-shaped […]

Day 23: Demre to Alakilise Ruins

We took the advice of our hostel owner in Demre and had him drive us up to the first village on the mountain. In retrospect, we wish we hadn’t done that because it is a beautiful area and would have been a terrific walk. By taking the short drive, we likely shaved 3 hours off […]

Day 24: Alakilise Ruins to (almost) Belos

What a challenging day! Today we woke before the sun and Andreas stoked the fire from last night. And good thing, too, because it was cold! We quickly gathered our things and broke camp to have breakfast because we had a long walk ahead of us…at least 8 hours til we’d reach flat ground for […]

Day 25: (almost) Belos to Finike

At 5:30 a.m. we awoke to flashes of light. Perhaps it was Andreas with his head lamp in his tent? Unfortunately, no. It was lightning and light sprinkle of rain. We quickly hurried out of the tent and began breaking down camp. We knew from our last storm in Alinca (plus camping in Scotland on […]

Day 26: Finike to Gelidonya Lighthouse (via Karaöz)

We wanted to take Sherry to Neseli for breakfast this morning, but when we arrived they were still closed. But thankfully the bread shop portion of the business was open and taking hot loaves out of the brick oven. We bought 2 steaming loaves of delicious flat bread and wondered if we’d be able to […]

Day 27: Gelidonya Lighthouse to Adrasan

This lighthouse is perfectly placed to watch the sun clocking in or clocking out for the day. After breaking camp and eating breakfast at the base of the lighthouse, we began the walk up the coast to Adrasan. It was beautiful. We were above the coast, but not too high, and we could see the […]

Day 28: Adrasan to Çıralı (including the ruins of Olympos)

Mosquitoes in the night – the downside to the swamps surrounding Adrasan! Warren and Sherry both got up to put on bug spray in the middle of the night. At the next pansiyon we’ll remember to close the bathroom window! We woke at 5:30 and dressed quietly so as not to wake Sherry. Her route […]

Day 29: Çıralı (rest day to see the flames of the Chimaera)

A mosquito-free night and sleeping until the decadent hour of 6:30 a.m., followed by a steaming hot shower – delightful! We came to the dining room for breakfast, and because the morning was cool Yilmaz started another fire for us. He even made Turkish pancakes in addition to the normal breakfast after Warren raved about […]

Day 30: Çıralı to just past Tekirova

Ramazan opened the kitchen up for us so we could enjoy hot coffee before we left at the crack of dawn. Today’s route was estimated to be 8 hours, so we didn’t want to waste precious daylight hours. The sunset at 4:30 p.m. definitely means no lazy mornings if you want to make it to […]

Day 31: The Ruins of Phaselis and the End of the Trail for Us

For the first time on this trip, we had a lazy morning on a walking day…lazy for early-morning walkers, that is. The waves lapping on shore were so peaceful, and we unzipped the door on the tent so we could lazily watch the sunrise. It was perfect. The Turkish camper’s dog was frolicking on the […]